Kaya Rare

Elders of Dida, Kafitsoni, Nyari and Rare villages want the burial place of their great-grandparents to be recommended as a Kaya. Dida, Kafitsoni and Nyari are on the western edge of Arabuko-Sokoke Forest, whilst Rare village is approximately 2.5km from the forest boundary, between Kafitsoni and Nyari.

A Kaya is a deserted village which the locals have no intention of returning to. It is considered a sacred place and members of the families go to the place and pray to god through their ancestors. When the Sanya people migrated up from Kaya Kinondo in Kwale to the south of Mombasa, Rare was the first village they formed after they had arrived in this area. Kaya Kinondo has now become a site of interest for tourists to visit due to its fascinating history.

Legend has it that in the 15th Century, Mwavuo, son of Ngonyo was the first man who settled at Rare from Kwale. Mwavuo had wives, children, a large group of servants and many cattle. The children grew up well and his eldest son, Ngonyo son of Mwavuo (in Giriama tradition, the grandson takes on the name of the grandfather), decided he wanted to own his own property so he asked his father to divide his estate.

So Mwavuo took his children together up to a place called Dida, where he began to divide the land. Ngonyo as his eldest son was given Dida, his sons Katete and Nyanke were given Kafitsoni and Mumba was given Nyari. The others followed up to Sokoke.

forest edge on road to Dida edge of forest on the way to Dida

Some years later, Ngonyo decided to move to Marafa, whereby he was appointed Chief by the British Government. The brothers of Ngonyo stayed in their inherited lands. The grandsons of Ngonyo and his brothers stayed at the same land up to today, where they are still alive – though very old now.

When ASF was proposed for degazettement, the grandsons of Ngonyo’s brothers were the first elders from around the forest to come to the Government offices at Gede Forest Station to state their opposition to the degazzettement. They really wanted the forest to remain as it was before. The elders were very happy with the first demarcation, done by the British Government in the early days. Furthermore they have understood the significant importance of the forest in its usefulness to the local community in many different ways.

The first major project for ASF was that of BirdLife International – and it met with the same problems of threats to degazette the forest. The Project Co-ordinator was very happy, therefore, to work with the Dida Elders who were the first community to fight for the conservation of the forest.

Some months later, conservation awareness was made around the forest to support Dida community with their conservation. Elders sat down together and formed a conservation group – Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Adjacent Dwellers Association (ASFADA). The group stated that they are facing many problems from the forest wildlife coming to their shambas (farms) and destroying crops. The Project Co-ordinator then helped the group to write a proposal, which succeeded in gaining funds to install the Elephant Fence know seen around the forest edges.

The Dida elders are proud of their achievements in stopping degazettement of the forest through focussing on the same things that their grandfather Ngonyo prioritised – and which therefore led to him being appointed a Chief in Marafa in the early days.

Given the history of their people and the stories handed down from their great grandparents, the people of Dida and Rare are very keen to make their area known as a place of interest and to have their burial ground recognised as a Kaya.

Forest Patrol

The forest destruction in the Nature Reserve has come high, especially in the Cynomentra habitat, cutting down the Brachylaena trees for carvings and a lot of different sized snares for different animals.

Poachers have gone to the reserve and set up many camps. They change camps as they run out of trees, and now that the Brachylaena trees are almost finished, they have moved to the mixed forest to cut the Mtangai trees.

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Many of the animals in the Nature Reserve – elephants, buffalos, sunis and duikers are now scared of being disturbed by humans, which have forced elephants to stay close to the Arabuko pool for almost a year.

The current Forester at Gede Station has set up routine patrols inside the Reserve with his Forest Guards, aiming to reduce the destruction from human activity. I have been with him and his Guards several times and on the last trip, we discovered two snares, one still holding a rotten Suni carcass. We also came across an old camp where the poachers had stayed for approximately 6 months. We followed the road to Nyari and stopped at the other vegetation where we entered the Reserve.

gambian rat trap small mammal trap in Arabuko-Sokoke

I have worked at Arabuko-Sokoke Forest for about 37 years and this Forester is the only officer I have met who really loves his job. I am really proud of him.

ASF Water Hole

The forest has many water ponds which fill during both the short and long rains. During the wet seasons, animals can find water throughout the forest, however the ponds dry up during the dry season which then causes problems for local wildlife, especially elephants, who are trapped inside the forest by the electric fence.

elephant fence beside Arabuko-SokokeThere is a water pond in the Arabuko area which keeps water for a long time and is the last to dry out. This year, it dried in the middle of September and the elephants could no longer get water unless they leave the forest. However, the electric fence covers almost the whole forest, except the part between Girimacha and Boga Machuko villages.

Elephants have been around the forest for a long time, but today face problems not only from water shortages, but also forest disturbances and tree and animal poaching. The day to day Elephants are the indicator of the forest destruction.

We have spotted many snares and cut trees around the forest, as well as two elephant skeletons with their tusks removed. A poacher also recently died in the forest, having stepped on a poisoned metal spike – a real threat to others of us using the forest.

The forest now lies across the boundaries of 3 districts – Kilifi, Ganze and Malindi and has 3 forest stations, which are Gede, Jilore and Sokoke Forest. The officers in charge have demarcated the forest in three blocks and every officer is controlling / patrolling his / her bit, though this is not proving enough.

Ganze is a new District which borders the forest between Dzunguni and Malanga villages on the south and north western sides of the forest. Kilifi District borders the forest between Dzunguni and Matsangoni villages on the South and East of the forest, whilst Malindi District borders the forest wetween Matsangoni and Malanga villages on the East and North West of the forest respectively.

Due to the establishment of the new district, Sokoke Forest Station lies under Ganze District and Kilifi seems to have no Forest Station. In my opinion, a recommendation can be made to use Karacha as a new Forest Station under Kilifi, with its own Forester.

Kenya Wildlife Service at Gede Station play an important role in Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve and the surrounding areas. It could be a nice idea if a Game Warden or Assistant Warden were posted at Sokoke Forest Station to reduce illegal activities and human and animal conflict.

African Crowned Eagle nest threatened by tree poachers in Arabuko-Sokoke

On Saturday I went with Simon Thomsett and Laila into Arabuko-Sokoke Forest to show them the nest of the resident pair of African Crowned Eagles. Simon & Laila were keen to see if it was active and if so to get photos of the eagle on or near its nest if at all possible. We entered the forest in the early afternoon and I took them straight to the nest – but as we reached the nest we immediately saw the huge Brachystegia that was 36m from the nest tree and which the eagles liked to perch in before going to the nest… had been cut down. We were furious to see that the tree had been cut down by tree poachers.

Here’s the cut tree with the eagle nest showing behind (circled) – the disturbance to the nest when it was cut would have been significant.

The tree had only been felled and a start made on the sawing up of the trunk into planks. They had clearly been surprised and chased off by something because the cross-cut saw was left in place as well as their outer clothes and a 5 ltr jerry can of water – it was probably an elephant that came along and scared them off.

the water, clothes and other items the poachers left behind when they were disturbed

you can see the saw sticking out each side of the end of the tree trunk which was left by the poachers.

Simon & Laila took photos of the nest and we waited for about 20 mins to see if the adults would return… and sure enough one adult came and perched higher up in the nest tree, looked around a bit and then flew off again. We didn’t stay any longer for fear of disturbing them from the nest and instead returned direct to the Kenya Wildlife Service offices for the forest to see the Warden and make a report of the cut tree. Unfortunately he was not in but Simon took the Wardens phone number so he could explain the situation about the nest and the cut tree and to make sure that it should not be disturbed. This is particularly so as Crowned Eagles are getting rarer and rarer and need to be protected with the same level as rhinos are.

a close up of the eagle nest

I didn’t have my camera and GPS that day so I returned yesterday (Sunday) with them to mark the path and the trees and photograph the illegally cut Brachystegia. It is a huge tree – 226cm in circumference – and was really important for the eagles to perch on before going in to the nest. The disturbance by the tree poachers as they cut the tree with an axe would have been very serious and we don’t know the exact effect of it yet.

Today I saw the Warden in the morning and reported it in full to him and he is going to send some rangers to try and catch the poachers. I was to show them today but they went with Willy to see another cut tree in the Arabuko area of the forest that they hoped to catch the poachers – but they found the planks had already been removed by the poachers. I’ll therefore hope to take them to the Crowned Eagle nest tomorrow.

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Monitoring tree poaching & elephants in Arabuko-Sokoke Forest with KFS

David has been doing a lot of fieldwork recently and the elephants in particular are very active in the forest. He reports:

This month the elephants have come to one side of the forest – the north-eastern side around Arabuko and Mida. The reason for this is most likely due to human disturbance further into the forest where they are normally found – including pit-sawing, cutting poles for building, animal snares and camps for wood carvers [ed: wood carvers go into the forest, cut trees and then make a rough carving at a camp right in the heart of the forest so that their load to carry out is much lighter]. We are spotting elephants even in the day – something which previously was almost unheard of since they are so shy. On the 14th, just 400m from the junction near the main road we saw 5 elephants cross the road around 1pm in the afternoon.

We really believe the elephants are being chased out of the Nature Reserve area due to human disturbance – and we therefore need to get in there and check out what disturbance there is in the area. To do this I follow foot paths and using a GPS note all incidents of illegal activity – cut stems, snares and wood carvers camps. These are then to be mapped and distributed as reports to the forest management.

I have been using the FoASF motorbike to reach the very far inland side of the forest in order to survey foot paths near a place called Malanga. There were some well-used paths getting into the forest which I spotted and while over there I met an elephant fence controller who informed me there were tree poachers camping in the forest to cut Cynometra for carving. They apparently leave the forest at the weekends to bring out the wood carvings they’ve made and take them to Malindi or Mombasa through Kilifi using buses. On hearing this I came and reported this to the Forest Officer of Kenya Forest Service at Gede Forest Station who then asked me to take the fence controller to show me the paths that he knows the poachers use to reach their camps for cutting Cynometra trees so that I could take forest guards to follow the pathand take GPS coordinates of any destruction in order to evaluate how far the destruction has gone in that area.

Illegally cut tree for timber – Arabuko-Sokoke

I use the forest guards because to go alone is risky – the poachers can be quite dangerous as they are carrying these ‘big cigarettes’ which when they smoke they don’t worry about who they’re pointed at [Ed: this is David's way of talking of pangas & other weapons which they don't think twice about using]. Secondly it is then possible to arrest poachers with guards – something which is impossible alone.

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FoASF on Twitter

Friends of Arabuko Sokoke Forest is now on Twitter!

We’ll be updating our daily happenings on the newest social networking site, and David will be able to post his activities directly from his mobile as he continues work in the forest.

Check us out at www.twitter.com

Recent Snare Survey

On April 9th, our acting manager Lucy Kapombe, David Ngala, and Gede Forester Blessington Maganga and his rangers went on a snare survey in the forest. After traveling down the trail some ways they came upon three poachers carrying saws and a bag of bushmeat. Upon seeing the rangers, the poachers fled, leaving all their things behind. The team recovered a number of tools used to remove trees, and the cooked meat and skin of a red duiker. Along with the meat, they also disassembled 39 snares of various sizes recently set up by poachers in the forest, and uncovered 16 stumps of trees cut down by the poachers for timber.

The snare survey on April 15th involved no such run in with poachers, but did manage to dismantle 20 snares.

FoASF has benefited greatly from the help of the Gede division of the Kenya Forest Service. Mr. Maganga has been more than helpful in providing rangers for the snare surveys, and is quite adept at identifying them himself.

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The team with the unfortunate catch of the poachers.

Community Outreach

Friends of Arabuko Sokoke Forest has teamed up with A Rocha Kenya and Nature Kenya Bush meat Project to organize a community education team, working towards informing the local community about the importance of conserving the forest. This initiative has recently resulted in a number of meetings, both with schools and local communities, on the dangers and adverse effects of hunting bush meat.

The dangers of bush meat are many. Certain diseases such as anthrax and Ebola can be transmitted to humans through the consumption of wild animals. These animals are also part of what draws tourists to the forest. Unfortunately, some of these mammals are both endangered and hunted, including the Adders Duiker, Sokoke Bush Mongoose, and Golden-Rumped Elephant Shrew. The loss of these animals to hunting will also mean a loss of tourism and revenue to the surrounding area.

The schools were happy to have us, and FoASF benefited from a number of volunteers from A Rocha in organizing the lessons. In total, we visited seven schools, reaching over 670 students!

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The students were eager to join in on the lesson

Charo Ngumbao, Bushmeat Committee Member from the local community, assisted in the school sessions

A Rocha Kenya volunteer Laura Wise from Reading, UK was there to help out

The team also set out to make aware the community the laws against hunting bush meat. The surrounding villages of the Arabuko-Sokoke have depended upon the forest for hundreds of years as a source of food. Many are still unaware that hunting in the forest is now illegal. For this reason, FoASF, A Rocha and Nature Kenya have strived to provide alternatives to illegal poaching. We have helped to establish small groups within the local community organized to both breed and distribute domesticated animals like goats and chicken. Each group organizes a constitution stipulating the best way to distribute these animals throughout the community. Once the Bushmeat Committee approves these plans, they will distribute a number of animals to the groups.

The meeting in Malanga drew 364 villagers from the local area! We were glad to have such a great turnout and are excited that the community is taking an interest in conservation.

A Rocha even helped out with allowing us to use their projector for our presentation!

Thanks to all who volunteered and participated!

GIS training in Samburu

GIS Training in Samburu.

Geographical Information System (GIS) is a conservation tool that is slowly gaining momentum in today’s conservation world. Recently the Ecological Society of Eastern Africa also know as ESEA organized for a GIS training that was held at the Earth Watch Institute in Samburu – Kenya.

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Participants at the GIS training.

The training targeted users of GIS in the field in conservation work, its aim was to help users become familiar with the use of GIS as a conservation tool and how to use it in mapping issues of importance in conservation.

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Participants are shown how to use a GPS.

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Elepehants at Sambur Nature Reserve, where we carried out our field work.

The training drew participants from Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania. This training gave the participants insight on the of GIS and the use of a GPS as a data entry tool. The FoASF manager, Caroline Lumosi was among the participants who benefited from the training. The new skill gained will be of a valuable resource for FoASF in mapping the illegal activities in the forest.

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GIS training participants.

For more information concerning training opportunities with ESEA kindly visit www.ecsea.org

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Finland Geography students visit Arabuko-Sokoke and its environs.

Finland Geography students visit Arabuko-Sokoke and its environs.

Arabuko-Sokoke recently received students from the University of Helsinki in Finland who were on a tour to learn on the conservation efforts in Arabuko-Sokoke and what can be replicated in Dakacha woodland.

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The students in the Forest.

The students are carrying out a study in Taita on impact of community participation on natural resource management. Arabuko-Sokoke area has been taken as a baseline study to evaluate the impacts and outcome of community participation.

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Illegal charcoal burning in Dakacha woodlands.

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